How to Shape Your Brows: Setting the Shape with Three Reference Points
Brows are shaped by marking three reference points: a vertical line drawn up from the side of the nose gives the starting point, a line passing the outer edge of the pupil gives the highest point, and a line from the side of the nose to the outer corner of the eye gives the end point. Once these three points are marked, only the hairs outside them are removed.
To avoid ruining the shape, making short touch-ups every two or three days is safer than removing a lot of hair at once. Since the area can be irritated after shaping, waiting 10-15 minutes before applying color products gives a cleaner result. Doing it in daylight while looking straight into the mirror gives a more symmetrical result than looking closely into a magnifying mirror; magnification exaggerates detail and leads to removing more hair than necessary.
How to Do Your Brows: Filling and Setting Order
Brows are done in three steps: brushing, filling and setting. First the hairs are brushed upward, gaps are filled with short hair-like strokes, and a clear or tinted setter goes on last. Done in this order, the application takes 2 to 3 minutes and holds its shape all day.
While filling, keep the pressure light at the inner part of the brow and more intense on the outer third. Keeping the inner part lighter keeps the look natural. Product options are listed in the Brow Pencil & Shadow collection.
How to Choose a Brow Shape for Your Face
Brow shape is chosen to balance the opposite of your facial features. On a round face, a defined arch elongates the face; on a square face, a soft arch balances the jawline; and on a long face, a straight, horizontal brow shortens it. Thickness is always kept in proportion to the size of the eyes.
- Round face: a medium-height arched brow with a crisp tail.
- Square face: a softly transitioning arch instead of a sharp angle.
- Long face: a straight, horizontal line with minimal arch.
- Heart-shaped face: a gently arched line of medium thickness.
What Products Do You Need for a Brow Routine?
The lineup for a brow routine is four pieces: a comb, a color product, a setting gel and an angled brush. Used together, these four complete both gap filling and shape hold in a single application. A sharpener is a fifth helper, as it keeps the tip thickness consistent.
Choosing a color one shade lighter than your hair gives a more natural result. For application tools, see the Eye & Brow Brushes collection.
How to Use a Brow Comb
Before applying product, a brow comb brushes the hairs up and outward to reveal the real gaps. Brushing a second time after application distributes excess product and softens harsh strokes. Brushing twice removes the artificial look left by heavy product applied in one step.
The angled brush on the other end of the comb is used to place setting shadow in short strokes. Product residue building up between the comb's teeth eventually sticks hairs together; rinsing it with lukewarm water once a week prevents buildup and keeps the brushing motion smooth again.
How to Make Brow Makeup Last Longer
How long brow makeup lasts depends on removing oil from the area before application and adding setting gel at the end. When both steps are done together, the look holds for 10 to 12 hours. On a brow area with leftover moisturizer, color product fades and smudges within a few hours.
Waterproof formulas make a noticeable difference in hot weather and on sweaty skin. Clear gel sets the shape only without adding color, while a tinted setter adds the impression of fullness at the same time.
What to Look for When Choosing Brow Products
Hair density, the finish you want and tip thickness are the deciding factors when choosing brow products. On sparse brows, fine-tipped, powder-finish products give a hair-like effect; on full brows, a setting gel alone is often enough. The finer the tip, the more natural the line looks.
If you'd like to plan the brow step together with your whole eye look, see the Eye Makeup Routine page; to try coordinated products together, see the Brow Design Set page.